Replacement Screw Cap plans for 60-70's lamp upload

[Duane K]

Hello all, first time here.

I have an old lamp that was my grandma's and I'm a little sentimental about it.  It must be early 70's minimum because I remember it as a child.  I'm sure you all can probably identify it and that might help what I'm trying to do here.  A few years ago the cap cracked, it got cloudy and didn't work good anymore.  I'm in the process of trying to restore it, using the lava formula I found here.  I was about to say goodbye to it because I could not find a replacement cap.  Then I realized I could 3D scan the old cap, use that to build it in CAD, and have a replacement 3D printed!  So the cap should be back from the printer soon and hopefully it fits and the re-lava goes well.  I want to share the file used for the 3D print, it took about 10 hours and some pretty expensive equipment/software to reverse engineer.  The cap only cost $13 to print once I made the file.  I do want to make sure my replacement fits before I upload it.  I will also try to give updates on my overall success with the restore.  Here is a picture of the lamp so maybe someone can identify it.  Hard to tell in picture but it is gold-ish in color, and the cap screws onto the glass threads with an o-ring seal.

Buy it here https://www.shapeways.com/product/4TJ6AR66D/lava-cap-for-70-s-quot-...

[Duane K]

You were with support at the beginning @Claude J  It's great to see you found a good original color also.  I'm not around often, but I'll be around again!

[Claude J]

thumbs up

[Freeman Lowell]

First post here. Just wanted to say I got my replacement cap today and it fits perfectly (without the o-ring). Do you know if the o-ring is critical for creating a seal (I do have the o-ring but it seems to create a gap at the top)? I’m going to start a separate thread for other questions I have but wanted to make sure to say Thank you so much for doing this!!!

[Arne]

I dont feel like going through 63 replies now but in case it hasnt been said yet 1. for some filaments like abs its common to do a final finish with acetone vapor. It'll melt the surface and close tiny gaps resulting in a glossy finish. 2. I think vintage Crestworth Astro bottles used an identical cap, you might want to add this to your description once somebody confirms this. If no one knows I can check tomorrow.

[Arne]

Yes it is. Used a bottle without the rubber ring and as soon as you tilt it enough liquid runs out.

Freeman Lowell said:

First post here. Just wanted to say I got my replacement cap today and it fits perfectly (without the o-ring). Do you know if the o-ring is critical for creating a seal (I do have the o-ring but it seems to create a gap at the top)? I’m going to start a separate thread for other questions I have but wanted to make sure to say Thank you so much for doing this!!!

[Freeman Lowell]

Thanks. I realized after I posted this that the replacement cap came with an o-ring already installed so I was doubling up and hence the gap :)

Arne said:

Yes it is. Used a bottle without the rubber ring and as soon as you tilt it enough liquid runs out.

[Jsmooth]

I bought one of these caps and it works perfectly! Thanks a bunch!!!

[BSP016]

Mine just came in today, and it's a perfect fit for my copper 2-piece Century! My old O-ring fit perfectly. I am so thrilled that this is a viable replacement that is available for everyone, thank you so much for creating this file. Planning on painting mine a soft coppery color to match the base. 

[Loren]

Here is the cap, printed on an elegoo Mars II resin printer.
:) :) :)

THANK YOU so much for not only hosting this file for people who lack a 3D printer, but also providing the STL file for those who have one!! It is so amazing to have this file... we will never be without an important (and fragile) accessory again!!

Oh, there was one small issue when printing this STL on a resin printer, a tiny hole appeared where the thread starts, at the deepest part of the inside of the cap. In the picture that part can be seen to the left of the inside part, but the hole is not visible. This can easily be patched up with some resin and a UV torch.

That artifact is NOT in the STL file.

I'm going to try and print this again, I'll let you know how the 2nd run goes!