Simplified version of the retro formula. must see! - Oozing Goo - The Lava Lamp Syndicate2024-03-29T05:16:00Zhttps://oozinggoo.ning.com/forum/topics/simplified-version-of-the-1?groupUrl=lavalampscientists&feed=yes&xn_auth=noHi Justin:
Did you use natur…tag:oozinggoo.ning.com,2010-05-26:1566398:Comment:1431182010-05-26T03:37:24.305ZLavaMeisterhttps://oozinggoo.ning.com/profile/LavaMeister
Hi Justin:<br />
<br />
Did you use natural or the white beeswax to get the opaque look? I have purchased some creamy candle wax that has a shiny appearance for the main mix. I figured I'd use some beeswax if it is necessary. I don't know how transparent the creamy wax is when melted. The melt point is 185 deg. Farenheit for the creamy wax. I've seen a great range of melting points (135 to 185 degrees) in my search for a wax to use on my own project. It's my hope that the wax I've chosen will give the lamp…
Hi Justin:<br />
<br />
Did you use natural or the white beeswax to get the opaque look? I have purchased some creamy candle wax that has a shiny appearance for the main mix. I figured I'd use some beeswax if it is necessary. I don't know how transparent the creamy wax is when melted. The melt point is 185 deg. Farenheit for the creamy wax. I've seen a great range of melting points (135 to 185 degrees) in my search for a wax to use on my own project. It's my hope that the wax I've chosen will give the lamp a more vintage look. I love the way that the 1970's wax undulates as it moves. Very nice. One thing I have discovered about using beeswax is that the darker colored, unbleached beeswax may actually have trash in it, even parts of bees. Look at your block for anything that may have settled out in the processing. It will be darker than the other parts of the wax. Take a look at this link for everything you ever wanted to know about beeswax. <a href="http://www.santafecandle.com/learn/beeswax/beeswax.htm" target="_blank">http://www.santafecandle.com/learn/beeswax/beeswax.htm</a> How's the color holding up on…tag:oozinggoo.ning.com,2010-05-24:1566398:Comment:1429902010-05-24T04:11:44.334ZLavaMeisterhttps://oozinggoo.ning.com/profile/LavaMeister
How's the color holding up on your lamp? I've heard organic dyes can break down over time an ruin the overall look of the lamp. Have you noticed any cloudiness or loss of color?
How's the color holding up on your lamp? I've heard organic dyes can break down over time an ruin the overall look of the lamp. Have you noticed any cloudiness or loss of color? I was wondering if anybody ha…tag:oozinggoo.ning.com,2010-05-24:1566398:Comment:1429892010-05-24T04:09:47.710ZLavaMeisterhttps://oozinggoo.ning.com/profile/LavaMeister
I was wondering if anybody has used premium beeswax exclusively without any candle wax or standard paraffin wax?
I was wondering if anybody has used premium beeswax exclusively without any candle wax or standard paraffin wax? Very good explanation, thank…tag:oozinggoo.ning.com,2010-04-28:1566398:Comment:1407582010-04-28T13:03:44.007ZKeithhttps://oozinggoo.ning.com/profile/Keith
Very good explanation, thank you!
Very good explanation, thank you! Sorry, but it's pretty much h…tag:oozinggoo.ning.com,2010-04-28:1566398:Comment:1407532010-04-28T10:06:09.272ZMagicLamphttps://oozinggoo.ning.com/profile/MagicLamp
Sorry, but it's pretty much hit or miss if you don't have a small chemical lab at your disposal. If I had a chemical lab and could naiI down the exact quantities used and the exact densities achieved I wouldn't need to resort to such DIY methods like "adding perc as needed". Each lamp is indeed, very different.<br />
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I can only describe the general technique: I initially create a relatively lightweight goo (1/4th perc to 3/4ths wax, no matter what type of wax you use that is going to be very light.…
Sorry, but it's pretty much hit or miss if you don't have a small chemical lab at your disposal. If I had a chemical lab and could naiI down the exact quantities used and the exact densities achieved I wouldn't need to resort to such DIY methods like "adding perc as needed". Each lamp is indeed, very different.<br />
<br />
I can only describe the general technique: I initially create a relatively lightweight goo (1/4th perc to 3/4ths wax, no matter what type of wax you use that is going to be very light. I add enough fluid to reach about 2 fingers below the desired level (keep in mind that both the wax and water will expand when warm, and that adding more perc/wax will increase the volume further).<br />
<br />
THe idea here is to have enough leeway to add perc/wax instead of fluid.<br />
<br />
So I let everything warm up to "operating regime", and let the wax melt completely.<br />
<br />
1. When it forms ONE big floating bubble, I drop perc directly on top of it, drop by drop if necessary.<br />
2. The reaction is immediate: denser blobs of wax start sinking immediately.<br />
3. I only let about half of the wax to "sink" this way, and now I have two blobs with very different densities.<br />
4. I then wait for the heavier goo to heat up too and go re-join the lighter one on top.<br />
5. When they recombine, the TOTAL density will decrease...hopefully near the "sweet point".<br />
<br />
It's important that you let some space when adding the fluid, because the goo volume is going to increase at every step!<br />
<br />
Now, if the total density just happened to be right, the lamp should start to cycle. If not, you'll need more perc, so I add just enough to cause HALF of the goo to sink, wait for it to recombine etc.<br />
<br />
So basically it's like an "approximation by halves". (or thirds or whatever you feel more comfortable working with).<br />
<br />
It's tedious and needs per-lamp work but you can do with really minimal materials (not even prop glycol is needed) and you'll get a salt-free and glycol-free lamp that will work directly with any distilled water.<br />
<br />
About materials used:<br />
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I try finding candles of the desired color, so for this one I found some fully dyed high-quality aloe vera candles, that were all-solid grass-green wax (not white with just a color shell). I mixed in some canning wax to make it more light in color, or else it would be too dark.<br />
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The liquid is really just distilled water with some blue/magenta stamp ink dissolved into it to give it a purplish hue, and maybe a fl.oz of diluted windshield cleaning fluid and windex (!), which I added more for the surface-tension breaking effect, else the blobs were just too strong! No salt, no prop glycol. Do you have a breakdown of qu…tag:oozinggoo.ning.com,2010-04-26:1566398:Comment:1406052010-04-26T21:00:10.409ZKeithhttps://oozinggoo.ning.com/profile/Keith
Do you have a breakdown of quantities used? How much wax (what type and what type of dye)? How much perc? Water? Volume of any other additives? Total volume?<br />
I realize each lamp would possibly require different ratios, but your method sound like a great starting point. Thanks!
Do you have a breakdown of quantities used? How much wax (what type and what type of dye)? How much perc? Water? Volume of any other additives? Total volume?<br />
I realize each lamp would possibly require different ratios, but your method sound like a great starting point. Thanks! Alternatively, I discovered a…tag:oozinggoo.ning.com,2010-04-26:1566398:Comment:1406002010-04-26T20:45:13.085ZMagicLamphttps://oozinggoo.ning.com/profile/MagicLamp
Alternatively, I discovered another technique that seems to work fine: mix just "a little" perc with the wax (little enough to cause most of it to float) and then once the wax is hot and forms a large bubble on top of the globe, add more perc as needed. This way you can even avoid using salt or other additives! Tried it with success in my latest creation, <a href="http://oozinggoo.ning.com/photo/albums/poison-ivy">Poison Ivy</a>. It takes some patience to get right, but you get the advantage of…
Alternatively, I discovered another technique that seems to work fine: mix just "a little" perc with the wax (little enough to cause most of it to float) and then once the wax is hot and forms a large bubble on top of the globe, add more perc as needed. This way you can even avoid using salt or other additives! Tried it with success in my latest creation, <a href="http://oozinggoo.ning.com/photo/albums/poison-ivy">Poison Ivy</a>. It takes some patience to get right, but you get the advantage of having an almost entirely additive-free lamp. With this method, you can also add a bit more of <i>wax</i> as needed if you need to get the density down a notch. I actually never used any par…tag:oozinggoo.ning.com,2010-04-05:1566398:Comment:1389592010-04-05T17:32:00.260ZMagicLamphttps://oozinggoo.ning.com/profile/MagicLamp
I actually never used any particular instruments for finetuning the water density: I just added a teaspoon of salt at a time, let the lamp warm up, and if the water wasn't dense enough I let it cool down and repeated. I found that an amount of 4 teaspoons for 400 ml of water worked OK.... but let the wax cool down or else the solid salt crystals will react violently with the perced wax and cause it to outgas!!!
I actually never used any particular instruments for finetuning the water density: I just added a teaspoon of salt at a time, let the lamp warm up, and if the water wasn't dense enough I let it cool down and repeated. I found that an amount of 4 teaspoons for 400 ml of water worked OK.... but let the wax cool down or else the solid salt crystals will react violently with the perced wax and cause it to outgas!!! I never saw that you replied…tag:oozinggoo.ning.com,2010-03-30:1566398:Comment:1382852010-03-30T18:28:56.165ZJenniferhttps://oozinggoo.ning.com/profile/Jennifer60
I never saw that you replied to the beeswax question. So glad I stopped by today!!! Thanks for the answer about beeswax!<br />
This lamp has a great flow. What's it like now? Has it continued to be a good lamp?
I never saw that you replied to the beeswax question. So glad I stopped by today!!! Thanks for the answer about beeswax!<br />
This lamp has a great flow. What's it like now? Has it continued to be a good lamp? it does actually flow very we…tag:oozinggoo.ning.com,2010-02-01:1566398:Comment:1319732010-02-01T23:20:15.336ZJustinhttps://oozinggoo.ning.com/profile/Justin187
it does actually flow very well thanks. yes the bubbles did work themselves out, however they do start to come back when it has been running for several hours. it does column up when it first starts to flow and after a while it starts to break down into smaller blobs. thanks for your interest. i am still working on perfecting it, so i will keep updating things as i tinker.
it does actually flow very well thanks. yes the bubbles did work themselves out, however they do start to come back when it has been running for several hours. it does column up when it first starts to flow and after a while it starts to break down into smaller blobs. thanks for your interest. i am still working on perfecting it, so i will keep updating things as i tinker.