coloring, available at any food store. Use a drop at a time, most globes only need 1-4 drops to get the color your looking for. Metallicaman said:
what u use to color the water?
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ood coloring last though? or does the color fade after time? LampHead said:
McCormick liquid food coloring, available at any food store. Use a drop at a time, most globes only need 1-4 drops to get the color your looking for. Metallicaman said:
what u use to color the water?
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And yep, the lamp flows just fine! No chunks in it at all, and it doesn't over heat. I'm very happy, because my very first midnight, and my 3rd ever lava lamp (in 2005) was a blue and purple. It had the lava logo stamped on the base. It's now faded clear and over heats even on a 25 watt bulb. So I'm gonna replace that globe with this one :) I love the blue/purple combo, and this one does seem lighter in color than normal ones but I like it too, the wax is much more visible than usual.…
mething else you can try, sometimes an older lamp needs more heat than it used to. So I have had to run lamps on a 60 watt bulb to get good flow although they have to be monitored to prevent overheating. You could try that and see what happens. You could also use a dimmer to control the lamp so it doesn't get the full 60 watt heat. Of course the color of the globe would still be the same. At least if this does work (not guaranteed but an easy experiment) you could then get wax dye to change the wax color pretty easily.…
listing the seller did warn about the bad coloring of the pic. I cant tell if it something faded or it kind of looks like champaigne mist...I have never seen one in person, and rarely on ebay. The cap of the globe is in excellent condition and the flowers are practically new looking. I will post pics when it gets flowing. Was the enchantress planter ever made in champaigne mist. The sticker says model 8200N 1977
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Wizard glitter. It contains tiny (less than 1mm) flakes in gold, orange, red, blue and green. The liquid is clear, but looks pale yellow when lit. The red and gold glitter are apparent from a distance, but orange, blue and green show up on close inspection. I've also heard that the color in these may fade with prolonged use. Mine is simply stamped "30W" on the cap. Glitter action is just as swirly and quick as most Wizards but, as stated (and pictured) it doesn't have the spot-from-across-the-room sparkle factor.
WIZARD GLOBE MAY BE GONE. WILL POST HERE IF IT ISN'T.
-- Two Consort bases, plastic pedestal. One: Felt a bit loose, gold faded to silver, includes reflector. Other, nice brassy finish, no reflector.
-- Windsor base (Consort with beefy round wood-grain metal base) felt has hole in center. Includes reflector.
WINDSOR BASE AVAILABLE. Had a trade set with Tha Duderino, he hasn't responded. Wherever you are, Dude, hope you're okay.
-- Hunter glitter, reddish-copper, red liquid, glitter has gone clear. Has original socket, minus screw-on ring which secures it into the base. No plug.
--Two brass non-planter Enchantress bases, no globes or caps.
--Tortoiseshell cap for safari lamp.
--Two heat reflector rings for late-90s Century bases. HEAT RINGS MAY BE GONE.
--Four Fantasia fiber-optic sprays for the second-smallest lamps: Love Bug, Alpha, Saturn, Ecstasy, Firefly, etc. Puffball or "heat spray" shape. Need cleaning and may have shed some fibers.…
and what type of wax should I look for? Will regular candle wax work? And thanks again for the response, I appreciate it. I'd really like to get this thing working like it should. Keith said:
Sounds like an original "snot rocket", greenish wax with blue liquid where the liquid has faded and the wax has been cooked and yellowed. Replacing the contents may be the right move.
But here's something else you can try, sometimes an older lamp needs more heat than it used to. So I have had to run lamps on a 60 watt bulb to get good flow although they have to be monitored to prevent overheating. You could try that and see what happens. You could also use a dimmer to control the lamp so it doesn't get the full 60 watt heat. Of course the color of the globe would still be the same. At least if this does work (not guaranteed but an easy experiment) you could then get wax dye to change the wax color pretty easily.
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dden behind the Graphic design), and sure enough, several of them display the same symptoms - yellowed MF and part-ghosted glitter.
It seems that if the globe is sealed really airtight the mix might be okay - after some evaporation (those inner caps failing) I used plumber's tape on the Living Jewels' cap thread; and so far it seems to be holding up. I really don't want to lose these re-created colours...They're over four years old now, though as you can see, the blue is fading to green...
Can anyone suggest better solutions to an airtight seal (with perc-based fills), please?
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