My vintage lamp crashed to the floor in the middle of the night and the cap broke spilling all the liquid. The wax was cold, so I still have all of it. I ordered a new cap, thanks to the person who has them being 3D printed, and am ready to re-fill, but am stumped. What remains in my lamp smells vaguely of kerosene. Can I use the suggested distilled water/epsom salt mix? Should I try to wash the wax in some way or just re-fill?
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NEVER use Epson salts,
That is reserved for high school experiments
It will ruin your wax, corrode your coil, and loose it effect quite quickly
if it was a viable option the factory would have used it
The master fluid is a combination of propylene glycol. distilled water and Surfactant>
Try starting out with 65%DW, 33% PG, and 2% SURF
There are a small % of other components but this will work
When reaching an operating temp of 120F, if the lava is sunk and domed but not flowing, add PG
If it's floating too much, let it cool a bit, remove some fluid and replace it with PG
Let it heat up fully between each additive/modification so you get accurate results
SLES
Sodium Laureth Ester Sulfate
My store isn't open yet but I have 4oz bottles for resale if you cannot find any
PM Me
you can use a clear handsoap in a pinch if it doesn't contain a ton of additional chemicals
Natalie said:
Surfactant = dish soap? Or is there another recommended option?
What what salt do you use And what surf or that other stuff is best
Claude J said:
NEVER use Epson salts,
That is reserved for high school experiments
It will ruin your wax, corrode your coil, and loose it effect quite quickly
if it was a viable option the factory would have used it
The master fluid is a combination of propylene glycol. distilled water and Surfactant>
Try starting out with 65%DW, 33% PG, and 2% SURF
There are a small % of other components but this will workWhen reaching an operating temp of 120F, if the lava is sunk and domed but not flowing, add PG
If it's floating too much, let it cool a bit, remove some fluid and replace it with PG
Let it heat up fully between each additive/modification so you get accurate results
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